Overview

Since surfers from California first started visiting Mexico, its allure has revolved largely around the fact that it is the closest (somewhat) exotic surf locale. While Mexico is near by, it is worlds away from the type of life to which U.S. citizens are accustomed. The combination of a foreign language, different traditions and great waves, are all reasons why visiting Mexico is considered one of the cheapest and easiest ways to escape crowds at your local break. Baja is a great place to score some waves because not only are there hundreds of miles of coast to play around on, but there are far less surfers than in places like California, Hawaii or Australia. This is not to say there arent Mexican locals, but most places in Baja Norte are surfed primarily by visitors.

Though the waves in Mexico may not be as consistently epic as the waves in somewhere like Bali, when you visit Baja you get the similar experience of escaping it all- but without the drain on your pocket book. And the waves in Mexico can get really really good. Baja Malibu, San Miguel, Cuatro Casas and a plethora of world class beach breaks await you when you visit Mex. Another plus of planning a surf trip to Baja is that regardless of what season you go in, theres pretty much a guarantee youll find waves somewhere. Unlike places like Hawaii that really suffer from a lack of surf during the off season, Mexico picks up both winter and summer swells, resulting in a higher frequency of waves year round.

There are lots of breaks pretty close together in Baja Norte, so if youre not satisfied with one place, you can always hop in the car and check the next spot without wasting too much time. Though afternoons in Mexico tend to be a little blown out (like in Southern California), 70% of the time theres a nice evening glass off. So the best thing to do is surf early- mid morning, take a nice, beer-induced siesta and go out again before dark.

Not only does Mexico hold a lot of potential for good surf, but also the nightlife, shopping and food in Baja are all to be desired. From crusty dive bars with ancient mariachi bands, to down and dirty discothques, to tourist places like Hussongs and Senor Frogs - there is no lack of nocturnal entertainment in Mexico. And everything is pretty cheap compared to the U.S. and places that use the Euro. When you visit Tahiti or Hawaii, things get pricey real quick and before you know it, youve blown your vacation money in the first week. This will not happen in Mexico. The food is hearty and inexpensive, the drinks are dirt-cheap and nearly everything is negotiable. Bring your appetite for waves, tacos, beer and your bargaining skills, and Mexico will not disappoint.

Best season for waves:

Any season. Baja Norte gets good waves during summer SW swells and it also gets bigger, burlier surf during the winter NW swells. May is a great month to visit because the water and weather are nicer and the SW energy starts pumping then. August and September are also prime months for surf in Baja.

Weather:

The weather in Northern Baja can be a bit trying. During summer it is usually pretty hot and dry, but it does tend to get windy in the afternoons. Winter is similar to the season in Southern California, though it can get a little colder because of the wind.

The good:

Lots of waves, wonderful cuisine, cheap EVERYTHING, friendly people, a lax attitude to life and a lower drinking age (18). Plus, almost anything you want in Mexico can be bargained for.

The bad:

Urchins, wind, Moctezumas revenge, getting your stuff stolen, Mexican jail, paying off the police, getting carjacked for everything and left standing naked on the side of the road..

The Waves

Baja Malibu: Baja Malibu is a right and left beach break. It is a decent wave and very consistent. Unlike its nomenclature suggests, Baja Malibu is a hollow and fast break with a sandy bottom. Though its not an exceptionally long wave its a fun one. It breaks best on a changing tide and can hold up to 10 feet of solid swell. And it takes ANYTHING: NW, SW, S and W swells all light up this speedy little wave.

Rosarito Beach: A beach break/sandbar that is predominately a left and a decently long wave. Rosarito takes a SW or W swell and though it does pick up winter swells, it doesnt break as clean on a NW. Like Baja Malibu, it is best surfed on a changing tide and it tends to max out at 8 or 10 feet.

K-38: K-38 is a right and left reef break. Its a pretty mushy wave, but its a good spot for beginnings and for longboarding. This spot takes any swell and is best on a mid to high tide. A plus of K-38 is that it can hold a lot of swell, usually up to 12ft.

K-55: This is a nice wave when its good. A right reef break, it likes a mid to high tide and breaks on most swells. The surf here is shapelier than K-38 and can get super fun.

Las Gaviotas: Gaviotas is in a gated community, but you can paddle down from outside the gates. Its a reef break that is mainly a right with a shorter left. This is a super fun wave and because its somewhat private, there are usually less surfers out. It can hold a lot of swell and works on any tide. Gaviotas is definitely a summer spot though and in winter it tends to close out.

La Fonda: La Fonda is a left and right beach break. It takes pretty much any swell and works on all tides. Also, the waves are usually very consistent. While not the best spot in Baja, if there are no waves at other places La Fonda always picks up something.

San Miguel: San Miguel is by far one of the best breaks in Baja Norte. It can be world class when its working, but it can be fickle too, as it totally shuts down on a higher tide and is prone to blowing out. Its a right rocky point and a fast hollow one at that. When its big you can make it all the way from the top of the point into the second bay. It takes a NW swell (although it does occasionally break on a big South) and it is known to be one of the more local breaks in Northern Baja. Just watch out for urchins and sharp rocks.

Todos Santos: Todos Santos is an island a few miles off the coast of Ensenada. Killers is the spot most people surf, its located on the backside of the island (the open ocean side) and its a big wave break. Todos breaks on a NW swell and is best when its double to quadruple overhead. If youre brave and experienced enough, the only way to reach this spot is by boat. So ask around the harbor at Ensenada and a fisherman will probably be only too happy to take the day off and make money off loco gringos who want to charge bombs.

Cuatro Casas: A right point, Cuatro can get very good. Its a long wave that takes all swells, though its best on a S/SW and it likes a mid or low tide. Theres also a campground here and its a pretty fun, mellow place to relax, surf and camp.

Punta San Jose: This is a right and left reef/point. San Jose is a decent wave that picks up most swells, it breaks on a mid to upcoming tide and can hold up to 15 feet of swell. When this wave is working like it should there are equally good, semi-hollow lefts and rights.

San Quintin Region: This is the region of Northern Baja that stretches from Punta San Jose to Punta Baja. Because there are so many breaks (often known by multiple names) we will not go into them all, but most are rocky reef or point breaks and beach breaks. The waves keep coming all year long and while the quality of all the surf isnt a perfect 10, the more protected inside points do get a lot of mediocre to good waves year round.

Water temps:

Summer: low- mid 50s but depending on the wind it can heat up to around the mid 60s.

Winter: low- mid 50s

Equipment:

Anything. Of course it depends on where you are surfing, but shortboards will work wonderfully at the heavier beach breaks and logs are great for slower places with long waves. Retro shapes, singlefin eggs, hulls and twinzers also work really well. Body boards, surf mats and lunch trays are all do-able.

Wetsuits:

Even if youre going down in summer, Baja Norte can be a lot colder than San Diego water (which is north of Baja). Because of the wind that batters the peninsula, Northern Mexican waters tend to be cooler due to upwelling. So bring a fullsuit just in case. A 3/2 should suffice, but if you are visiting in the winter a 4/3 and booties wont hurt. This isnt to say you cant trunk it in on a sunny summer day, just come prepared for the chill.

Locals:

For the most part mellow. Places like San Miguel are known to have some swarthier local surfers, but if you respect them theyll respect you. The vast majority of crowds you will encounter will be visiting American surfers, and while these guys may give you dirty looks at their stateside home breaks, in Mexico theyll most likely adopt an attitude of camaraderie.

Dangers:

Mexico has a lot of sea urchins, so booties are a good idea. Besides that, dangers mostly revolve around poor water quality (tap and ocean) and other food/water-borne illnesses. Sunburn is also an issue because Northern Baja is very sunny, though this is not nearly as big of a concern as it is in equatorial regions.

Accomodation/Transportation

Where to stay:

When traveling around Northern Baja you have three options: camping, staying in a hotel or renting a surf villa.

Camping is a really cheap and fun way to get outdoors. In Mexico, beaches are referred to by the kilometer of road theyre on, and some of the familiar surf spots are indicated as such: K-55, K-58, K-60, etc. Popular campgrounds are at Playa Alisitos/ K-58, Area de Descanso/ K-60, Rancho Girasol/ K-71.5, Baja Seasons/ K-73, Playa Saldamando/ K-94 and Playa San Miguel. These spots range in price, but usually they are under US$10 a night.

Hotels and hostels are another cheap option. Basically any town you come to will have some sort of hotel, though the quality of lodging is quite variable. Hotels usually range from $40 to $200 US a night. To find hostels, check: http://www.hostelsclub.com/stateregion-en-508.html

If you have a little more dough to play with, try to rent a one or two room surf villa. Many of these places are owned and rented by Americans who use them as their vacation homes. Some great spots to rent surf shacks are San Miguel and Las Gaviotas: both of these locations have great surf and the Gaviotas properties are part of a gated community- complete with a pool, Jacuzzi and other niceties. Here are some sites that will help you book houses in these locales: http://www.las-gaviotas.com/
http://baja-rentals.com/activities/baja-surf-spots/

Getting around:

Driving in Mexico can be simultaneously nerve wracking and exciting. From trucks barreling precariously down the toll road, to the off road trekking that is necessary to reach some breaks, Mexican roadways require caution and confidence in your own ability. The single most important thing you can do to prepare for your trip is purchase Mexican insurance. Insurance can be bought at insurance outlets (usually marked by BIG SIGNS THAT SAY MEXICAN INSURANCE). These are located at all the border crossings and basic coverage usually costs around $20 dollars a day. It is imperative that you get insurance because, while you will most likely not use it, if you get into an accident it doesnt matter who is at fault - youre going to spend a little time at a police station. And in Mexico, the less interaction you have with officials and cops the better.

Also, driving through the first hundred miles of Baja on the main road requires a toll. There are three toll booths in between TJ and Ensenada, as of November 2009 the toll is US$2.25. Besides this, one thing that is different about driving in Mexico is they use the metric system. So speed limits and distances are posted in kilometers and kilometers per hour. This is important to keep in mind, because when you see a sign that says 90 KPH this does not mean you can drive 90 miles an hour! This means you can drive 55 miles an hour.

Flying into the country is relatively easy, but if you decide to enter Mexico this way, youll need a car to get to most of the surf breaks, so trying to rent one at the airport is a good idea. Some reliable companies are:
International Car Rental http://www.usamexicocarrental.com/
Thrifty Car Rental http://www.thriftysanfelipe.com/
Avis http://www.rosarito-ensenada.com/rentacar.htm

Rental rates usually run anywhere between $25- $45 dollars a day, and as with your own car, it is highly recommended that you purchase Mexican insurance for your rental.

Things To Do

Attractions:

The attractions Baja Norte has to offer are beautiful beaches, hiking and camping, unique cities and shopping. The tourist traps (like La Bufadora, or, The Blowhole which is a naturally created, rock blowhole) are usually interesting for the first two minutes, but they quickly lose their mystique. If you are seeking to do some sight seeing, just walk around the town or city you are staying in. Visit the local open-air markets like the wharf in Ensenada, which is a fun combination of fish mongers and trinket sellers.

Where to eat and drink:

As expected, there are a bunch of Mexican restaurants in Mexico. They all have a little unique twist of their own so try as many as you can. Notable eateries are El Nido (the Nest) in Rosarito, and the fish and steak houses in Ensenada. Also, Puerto Nuevo is known for its cheap and delicious lobster meals. One person can eat all the lobster they want for around $15, and the meal usually includes rice, beans and as many freshly baked tortillas as you can handle. Northern Baja is known for its fish tacos, so try to make it down to the wharf and grab a bite at one of the many outdoor stands. The salsa selection is superb - just make sure you dont burn your taste buds off!

As far as drinking goes, the liquor selection is definitely not top shelf, but margaritas are excellent and so is the beer. In stores they usually sell beer by the case and bottles are usually 24 ouncers. Remember to save the bottles though, because when you buy a case of cerveza you pay a small deposit (this is the money for the bottles) when you return your empty vessels you get some money back or you get credit towards your next case. The bottles are then washed and re-used.

Shopping:

Shopping in Mexico is pretty epic. You can basically get anything you want at the open-air bazaars or in the various trinket shops that line the boulevards of most cities and towns. Vendors on foot also travel the beaches, usually toting cases of cheap silver jewelry, hats, scarves and other knick-knacks.

Bargaining is king in Mexico and if someone tries to sell you something, all you have to do is tell them (politely) that you were offered the same thing for a lesser price. Usually the vendor will drop their price or throw in something extra.

As far as souvenirs go, they range from cheesy tee shirts to hand woven ponchos, giant gauche religious inspired regalia (light up Jesus clock anyone?), sandals, jewelry, purses, weapons and pretty much anything else you could ever want. Also, if youre into outdoor dcor Mexico is a great place to buy brightly painted pottery and ceramic goods for your patio at discount prices.

Events:

The Baja 1000 is an event that has been going on since the 1960s. Its an off-road race that takes place on the Baja Peninsula in fall and competitors race on everything from motorcycles, to buggies, to supped up trucks, quads or other off-roading behemoths. The race is from Ensenada (Baja Norte) to La Paz (Baja California Sur) and the starting line is an exciting place to be. A fun event to visit if youre in Baja during October or November (the start date is flexible so check online), a word to the wise though - this race is not for those who dislike noise or dust!

The Puerto Nuevo lobster festival takes place in October and it is an event of gastronomic proportions. Puerto Nuevo is the self professed lobster capitol of Baja and when it comes to lobster, this town doesnt mess around. If you like lobster and margheritas this is the place for you. Cheap lobster plates are delicious and fresh and the shopping in Puerto Nuevo is also pretty good.

Dia de Los Muertos is on the 31st of October. A classic Mexican festival of life and death, Dia de Los Muertos means Day of The Dead and it is on the day we call Halloween. This is a time when Mexicans visit the graves of loved ones and make sugar skulls, decorations and lots of food to celebrate the passing of their ancestors. Graveside vigils are the order of the day (and night) and the streets are filled with colorful flair and candles. It is a uniquely Mexican event and worth witnessing.

Additionally, there are many wine and harvest festivals that take place in the Ensenada, Tecate and Rosarito area. The surrounding hills are home to many vineyards and nothing beats relaxing with a locally grown glass of vino after a good surf. To get more info, try this site: http://www.wineriesinbaja.com/ensenada-wine-festival.htm

Nightlife:

The nightlife in Northern Baja is superb. Though its not classy by any stretch of the imagination, this area is a hub of American visitors and college kids looking to escape the restrictions of the states and loose their inhibitions in a blur of tequila. Some notable places are: Papas and Beer, Hussongs, Senor Frogs, The Rosarito Beach Hotel and Hotel California. Of course, if you cruise into any large city (Ensenada, Rosarito, San Quintin, El Rosaria, San Ignacio, Santa Rosalia, Mulege, Loreto) there are always many places to choose from, and sometimes finding a great party spot all by yourself can be very rewarding.

Heres a good resource to consider if youre really serious about partying in Mexico:
http://www.pubclub.com/mexico/baja/index.htm

Current Surf Conditions

Click to see current conditions

Travel Info

Getting here:

Driving in from California is usually your best bet. If driving, you can cross the border at San Diego (San Ysidro)/ Tijuana, Tecate or Calexico/ Mexicali. If youre coming from somewhere that requires a plane ride (like the East Coast or a country other than the U.S.) you can fly into the Tijuana Airport (TIJ), the Ensenada Airport (ESE) or the Mexicali Airport (MXL). Airlines that service Mexico are US Airways, United, American Airlines, Alaskan Airlines, Aeromexico, Mexicana de Aviacion, Aviacsa and AeroCalifornia.

Official Language:

Spanish, Spanglish.

Currency:

Pesos and U.S. dollars. Mexican establishments love U.S. dollars. Almost everywhere in Baja Norte accepts this form of compensation.

Exchange rate:

1 USD: 12.967 MXN
Currency converter: http://www.x-rates.com/calculator.html

Health and safety:

Things to watch out for and be aware of while traveling through Northern Baja are pretty standard. Dont drink the water (unless you fancy getting Moctezumas Revenge). Try to always drink bottled water, do not accept ice in drinks and if you cant find water, drink aqua mineral (fizzy water) or soda or beer. Restaurant food is usually pretty safe, especially in established restaurants, but the more authentic the food and the more quaint the food stand the higher the chances that cooking conditions are unsanitary. Just be careful! Nothing beats fish tacos on the wharf in Ensenada, but just about everything beats violently ejecting said tacos from you body for the next 24 hours.

Because of the Mexican governments looser environmental standards, the seawater is significantly dirtier than stateside beaches. You can catch things from it and some diseases are worse than others. To protect yourself from Hepatitis and weird flus, take care to swallow as little saltwater as possible and if you see raw sewage being dumped straight into the line-up, paddle out at your own discretion.

Aside from those two health issues, as of November 2009, the U.S. government has continued to uphold previously issued travel advisories for Mexico- specifically for Northern Baja or La Frontiera.

Lets put this into perspective: while there has been a significant increase in drug related violent crime (as a result of Mexicos current President Calderons vow to win the war on drugs) this violence is localized in large border cities like Ciudad Juarez, Tijuana and Mexicali. The chances of surfers being held at gunpoint or kidnapped while visiting a small town on the coast, is notably less than the odds of drunk college kids meeting a similar fate while cavorting around TJ at 3 am. This is not to say that the advisories are for nothing and that there isnt always a possibility of being caught in an unfortunate predicament while visiting a foreign country.

Though Mexico may not be the safest place to vacation, there are definitely precautions that one can take against winding up on the wrong end of a ransom phone call. Keep in mind, the media only reports on Mexican vacations gone wrong- not the thousands of visits that occur each year without incident.

1.) Use the buddy system. Traveling with one or more people will discourage would be assailants from picking off the gringo loner. Even better, go with someone who speaks the language. The less rookie vibe you exude, the less likely it is that someone will try to take advantage of you.

2.) Dont wear expensive jewelry, brazenly tote your $500 camera around or flash (or carry) large wads of cash- this is pretty much self explanatory.

3.) Let someone in your home country know that you are going to Mexico, where you are going and when you plan on returning. Check in with them regularly and give them a way to check in with you.

4.) Dont buy drugs or have anything to do with anyone who buys or sells or talks about drugs. If there are drugs somewhere, remove yourself from the situation.

5.) If possible, dont drive at night.

6.) Dont break the law!

7.) Follow your gut instinct.

8.) Dont act like an idiot.

Heres a website that contextualizes the advisories as an over reaction: http://www.bajainsider.com/baja-california-travel/mexico-travel-warning.htm

Heres a website that advises against travel to Mexico:
http://www.nctimes.com/news/local/article_25cec7b5-0890-5185-bf7a-42d860c36955.html

You be the judge.

Pitfalls:

Moctezumas revenge, paying off the police, hangovers (tequila and burrito induced), terrible terrible smells (Mexicans are quite found of burning garbage).

Expectations:

Expect to get some good waves, great food and a bronzy suntan. Also, expect to feel dirty most of the time- but in a good way. Mexico is dusty and for reasons unexplained, Baja Norte compels one to forgo bathing. Perhaps this is not a phenomenon that affects all travelers, but when youre in the water all day, eating tacos and sleeping or camping in rag-tag conditions- showers lose their power because they are a relatively ineffective mode of combating the dirt.

Mexico is not for everyone. For every Mexi-addict you meet, youll find a handful of people who flat out refuse to visit the country. Opinions on Mexico are largely shaped by a surfers first visit. When it comes to surfing there, people usually either love it or hate it. But dont let anything anyone says dissuade you from visiting if youve never been. Go see Baja Norte and make your mind up for yourself.

If you like surfing in California, Mexico provides similar conditions with fewer surfers in an exotic and culturally distinct context. The vibe of the country is really laid back and for the most part, its a carefree and happy place. Though the Mexican nationals are significantly less wealthy than the average American (Norte Americano or gringo) they are happy and make the best of what they have. Mexicans are a friendly and very hospitable people; the inhabitants of Baja Norte are acutely aware of the fact that a large portion of their income comes from tourism.

The food is awesome and the shopping is epic. You can get anything you want: from sticks of dynamite to nun chucks, Mexican vicodin to Nacho Libre-esque wrestling masks. Mexico will fulfill all your wildest illicit dreams, just make sure you smuggle your booty back into the states with care!

Additional Resources

Wiki Travel:
http://wikitravel.org/en/Baja_California

Safe travel tips:
http://www.ontheroadin.com/travelinnformation/traveling_safe_in_mexico.htm

Baja Insider:
http://www.bajainsider.com/

Surf Maps:
http://www.bajaquest.com/maps/surfing.html