Ireland > Ireland

Ireland

Location

If Ireland wasn't there, Wales would have epic surf. But Ireland is there, and the west coast is studded with bays large and small, rivermouths, beaches, points and reefs. The California coast is a desert road compared to the west coast of Ireland, which has more nooks and crannies than a Thomas English muffin.

Seeing it from above, it looks like the coast is being eaten away by relentless waves and ocean energy - and that is not far from the truth.

Ireland is an island to the west of the United Kingdom and at around 53 degrees North (same latitude as the Queen Charlotte Islands and Newfoundland) it is a catcher's mitt for all the energy created by low pressure systems moving through the North Atlantic. When all that vibrant swell runs into that endless labyrinth of coves, bays, points, reefs, beaches, fjords, inlets and islets - the possibilities are endless.

Think "cold water Indonesia", with the accent on "cold".

Ireland is divided into four provinces: Leinster, Munster, Connaught (or Connacht) and Ulster. While the surfable coast of Ireland can be divided into the Northwest, West and Southwest, this really doesn't accurately paint a picture of the Irish coastline. When Californians, Hawaiians or Australians think about such a regionally based division, they tend to think of a straight line, partitioned off by direction- as in NorCal, SoCal and Central California. Ireland is nothing like this; the Irish seaboard is filigreed like the finest lace. Thus, deciding what direction of swell and wind constitutes good conditions for a certain area is a complex equation, as every twist and turn of the rough-hewn coast has its own micro-climate going. While the turbulent contour of the island makes standardization nearly impossible, this is also the feature of Ireland that makes for great waves.

In California, certain spots take certain swells and when a disagreeable swell rumbles through- there's not really much locals can do besides travel great distances to find a spot on the coast that is picking up the waves. Ireland is different: if a swell isn't hitting your favorite nook, or the wind is howling 50 MPH onshore, you can always pop down to the next nearby cranny (which may have a vastly different directional configuration) to find surf. Additionally, Ireland is located in the North Atlantic and the Irish coast takes a beating from low-pressure systems moving west to east.

Heaps of swell X complicated, surf-friendly geography = Ireland is a prime location for waves.

Season Overview

Best season for waves:

Remember Ireland is far north, like Queen Charlotte Islands and Newfoundland far north. That means Irelands surf season is definitely fall to spring, though waves occasionally do come through in the summer. In fall, from September through November, the weather stays relatively mellow and the surf starts pumping. Since summer is Irelands non-surfing tourist season, the prices for accommodation drop a bit in fall and the island gets a little less crowded. The waves continue through the winter but November to March in Ireland can be brutal, so if youre brave enough to paddle out in torrential gales and 48 degrees water go right ahead. From March to June the water and weather do warm up, but the chance of surf becomes slimmer as the North Atlantic begins to shut down.

Weather:

Weather in Ireland usually stays between 32 and 70 degrees F; in the summer there is somewhat less rain than in the winter and as the old joke goes, you can tell what season it is in Ireland by the temperature of its rain. But all joking aside, if youre looking for a location where you can catch a tan while enjoying some nice waves, Irelands not the place you want to go. While the fall and winter are colder than the summer, Irelands summer is not conventionally warm so it is wise to book in fall when theres a better chance of waves rather than in summer when theres a (marginally) better chance of sun. For the sake of comparison, Irelands fall is somewhat like winter in Northern California.

The good:

Uncrowded quality surf, hearty food, great beer and whiskey, amazing scenic beauty, good sightseeing and really friendly people. And great music. The Irish are relentlessly musical.

The bad:

The three cold Ws: weather, wind and water. Flat spells are not uncommon and neither is rain. Aside from that, the Irish reefs are home to sea urchins.

The Waves

Breaks:

The Irish coast is craggy and filigreed and intricate and has a million nooks and crannies, which makes it great for surfing because if there is swell in the ocean and wind blowing, some part of the coast should make sense of it. But making sense of the coast takes a while, because of the ever-changing equation of wind and tide and swell. To add to the confusion, the tidal change in Ireland can be up to twelve feet!

The best surf is in Ulster, Connaught and Munster. These correspond to the Northwest (Ulster), West (Connaught) and the Southwest (Munster). While there are many spots to surf along this coastline, featured here are the most notable breaks.

From the Northwest to the Southwest:

Rossnowlagh: This is a beach break in Co. Donegal that has a right and a somewhat more dominant left. Its a typical beach break and though the rides arent long, it is quite consistent. Rossnowlagh is best surfed on a mid to high tide and its a great place for beginners, as well as surfers who want to catch some truly uncrowded - though not perfect - waves. The break works best in the fall and takes a nice west swell.

Tullan Strand: A right beach break (with the occasional short left) that offers little rollers and a-frame, jetty-like waves next to a cliff. It can get big here and when other places are flat. Tullan (or The Strand) will almost always have something to ride. It takes a W or NW and is best on a low tide. The whole beach can be surfed, but the better waves are right next to the cliff towards the southern end of The Strand. Be warned though - this is one of the most popular surfing beaches in Ireland and usually if its any good, there will be a (predominately) local crowd.

Bundoran or The Peak: This is the wave that made Ireland famous (at least as far as surfing goes). It is a reef with a right but a longer, shapelier left. There is a long stretch of dry reef shelf that one must walk across to get to get to the waters edge (note to those of you without booties: get them. Urchins lurk in crevasses between the rock and mussels can be like razors on the feet). This is the local haunt of Irelands pros and a favorite of its non-native descendants, the Malloys.

Richie Fitzgerald has his surf shop (Surfworld) here and the town of Bundoran itself is definitely the epicenter of Irish surfing. For this reason, it can also get quite crowded when there are waves. Bundoran takes a low to incoming/mid tide and any tidal change (up or down if not too extreme) gives the waves a little extra oomph. It takes a NW or a W.

Mullaghmore: A wave strictly for hellmen, Mullaghmore is the left reef that produced the biggest wave ever ridden in Ireland. It only breaks on big winter swells and its a sight to behold. But beware: if youre going to try to challenge this beast you need to know what you are doing!!

If you want to say that youve surfed Mullaghmore and youre not a hellperson, there is a section called Mullaghmore strand (the Irish lingo for sandy beach/beach break) that is a bit up from the gnarly left. Dont specify to your friends back home where exactly you surfed at Mullaghmore, and perhaps gain their admiration and awe. This beach break works best on a high tide; the gnarly left likes a mid tide. Both take a big W or SW.

Strandhill: This wave is in Sligo and its a decent hollow beach break. It is a spring and summer spot and it takes a NW swell. As this is a beach break, the waves often depend on what the sand is doing. In any case, Strandhill is best on an incoming tide.

Garywilliam Point: A right reef that breaks infrequently but when it gets good its worth it. The point is hollow and fast and provides a decently long ride. It works best on a low to mid tide and can hold up to 10 feet of NW or W swell.

Crab Island: A right reef/ rocky point in Co. Clare. Its a short, hollow ride and it takes a low to mid tide. Crab Island is a winter spot and, as the name suggests, it is a near-shore island but it is still a ways out (about a 15 - 20 minute paddle, but Brock Little swam it naked in the 1990s, on a dare bet, and just about hypothermized his fool self). This wave can be fickle and usually requires a light east wind to get really perfect- and when all the conditions are right its a heavy wave. Definitely not for people on longboards or those who are inexperienced.

Lahinch: In the town of Lahinch, this wave is a beach/reef break that takes a W swell. Its good on almost any tide and wind (as long as neither are too extreme). Lahinch is a good place for the intermediate and beginning surfer and it is also situated in one of the few surf towns in Ireland.

Doughmore: Beachbreak that has a couple sand bars in Co. Clare. Closeout barrels abound but so do rips. If youre surfing here be careful, perhaps use the buddy system.

Inch Reef: This reef in Dingle Bay breaks infrequently, but it is a quite a decent wave when it does. Inch Reef offers a hollow right and left. Its best on a mid to high tide and on an E swell. This place is for the experienced surfer and since its a good wave, crowds can be an issue.

Water temps:

High to mid and low 50s during the summer, mid to low 50s during the fall, high 40s to low 50s during winter.

Equipment:

Ireland has a wide variety of surf, so whatever you have in your quiver will come in handy here. In fact if you want to do some R and D on your new Fish or SUP or anything, Ireland is the place. So, anything you want from longboards to body boards - it mainly depends on where youre surfing. Shortboards are a good call when its bigger out at places like The Peak, longboards are great for places like Rossnowlagh and if youre charging hard, guns (or tow boards) are necessary to ride the huge swells at Mullaghmore.

Wetsuits:

During summer and fall you can get away with a 4/3 fullsuit and, although booties and a hood arent absolutely necessary, they dont hurt either (especially if youre used to warmer climes). In late fall through winter and in early spring you need more rubber; a 5/4 with a hood and booties suffices.

Locals:

Usually friendly, but if youre disrespectful and a wave hog they will get pissed. The ancient Celts used to go to battle starkers nothing but a schwinging sword. For anyone whos ever seen a pissed Irishman (or woman), its not a situation one should strive to put themselves in: so be considerate.

Dangers:

Hypothermia (seriously), sea urchins, macking barrels and drunkenness. Ireland isnt an extraordinarily dangerous place unless you get to close to a cliff or forget what side youre supposed to drive on or cheer for the wrong football team or crack a joke in the wrong pub, but if youre surfing for a long session during late fall or winter, make sure you warm up afterwards with a nice shower, a good jacket and a pint of Guinness.

Accomodation / Transportation

Where to stay:

In Western Ireland, there are a lot of options for accommodations. Hostels are common and usually range from 20 euros a night for a shared dorm up to 45 a night for a private room. There are also hotels and bed and breakfast places that epitomize the word quaint. Some places to stay in Bundoran, Donegal (location of The Peak, Irelands most notable break) are listed below:

Donegal Adventure Centre: Hostel and surf camp program:
http://www.donegaladventurecentre.net/adult_accommodation.html

Site that links to Self Catering accommodation and guesthouses for rent:
http://www.westclare.net/

Site that links to all the hostels in Ireland:
http://www.hostelireland.com/

Getting around:

For better or worse, most of the breaks in Ireland are not accessible via public transportation. Youll probably have to rent a car, or you can try to hitch (this is a somewhat common mode of transportation, especially in rural Ireland). Make sure that when someone stops you specify that you need a lift- if you say get a ride you may be in for more than a trip in a car (like asking someone for the route in Australia.)

Some rental car sites are bellow:
https://www.alamo.com

http://www.budget.ie/

http://www.argus-rentacar.com/

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES:

Irish Surfing Assoc.
http://www.isasurf.ie/

Irish Surfer
http://www.irishsurfer.com/

Bundoran Surf Co.
http://www.bundoransurfco.com/

Bundoran surf cam
http://www.turfnsurf.ie/surfcam/

Irish Tourism Board
http://www.discoverireland.com/us/

Surfing Ireland
http://www.surfingireland.com/

List of Irelands landmarks/ national sites
http://www.irish-luck.150m.com/landmark.html

Featured Resort


Turf N Surf
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A continental breakfast is provided to all guests between 8:30 and 10:30 in the morning. Breakfast includes tea, coffee, toast, fruit, orange juice and a variety of cereals. There are restaurants of all sorts in the immediate area, and pub grub is Ireland is famous.

The Lodge has a chill out room with a view of Donegal Bay and free WiFi to keep tabs on the rest of the world. Free parking, changing room and lock up facilities for all your gear.

The atmosphere at TurfnSurf is social and friendly. Your hosts are available at all times for any special requests to make your stay more comfortable, or to recommend and arrange any local activities and sight seeing. It is important to remember that you are staying with the locals, so you will made feel part of the community.
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The Basics

Getting here:

Ireland has its own airline, Aer Lingus, but other airlines that fly to the island from the US are Delta, Continental Airlines, US Airways and American Airlines. International carriers Air Canada, Virgin Atlantic, British Airways and Air Europa also fly to the green isle.

Official Language:

English (with a heavy brogue) and Irish (which is Irish Gaelic) are both Eires official languages. While you probably wont hear much Gaelic being spoken in metropolitan areas, signs are posted in Irish as well as English, and when you get to the free state (the autonomous part of Ireland) chances improve that you will encounter an old seaman who still imparts salty wisdom in the sing-song, ancient tongue.

Gaelic spoken aloud is as pleasing to the ear as peat is to the nose and Guinness is to the tongue: this is the language that bubbled from the grass and moss and streams of this island.

A common Gaelic phrase is the Irish toast, Slinte! which means good health. Another thing you might hear if you drop in on someone is, Go n-ithe an cat th is go n-ithe an diabhal an cat. This means, May the cat eat you and may the cat be eaten by the Devil.

Though Gaelic is nearly indecipherable to the English-primed ear, Irish English may be similarly unintelligible. The Irish lack the phonetic capabilities to pronounce th, so three sounds like tree, third sounds like turd, thanks is tanks, and through sounds like true.

You get the point. Just smile a lot, and buy rounds.

Currency:

The Euro (EUR), pots of gold.

Exchange rate:

$1USD: 0.6787 EUR

A good currency converter can be found here:
http://finance.yahoo.com/currency-converter/#from=USD;to=EUR;amt=1

Health and safety:

Liver failure and carbohydrate overload (an Irish meal typically consists of meat, potatoes, some kind of stewy noodles and fresh baked bread- you have been forewarned!!). Oh yeah, the water is a bit nipply too. On second thought- its freezing!!! You can get away with wearing a 4/3 in summer, but in the fall and winter (when the real nice waves start pumping) you may need something more substantial.

And a word to the wise, DONT talk or joke about the IRA or the North/ South conflict if you are anywhere near the border of the two areas. Not that youre guaranteed an immediate punch in the face, but were not saying you wont receive one, either. Plus its just not polite!

Pitfalls:

Cold water, flat spells, rain, mud, frostbite, weight gain and alcoholism.

Expectations:

If traveling to the Emerald Isle, you can expect all your expectations to be exceeded. As nebulous as this statement is - its true. While the surf is mostly on the West Coast, all of Ireland is not only endowed with natural splendor and beauty, but it is also incredibly culturally rich. The people are exceptionally hospitable and friendly and the history of the place is very old. Rather than being cloaked by a modern facade, Irelands history is incredibly visible and palpable; when you visit the Irish countryside and villages you feel as if youve been transported back to the 18th century. The cobblestone roads, the mom-and-pop pubs and the antiquated buildings are not a pretense. They have indeed been there for decades and centuries, and the feeling one gets from walking down streets that feet have tread for centuries is indescribably delicious. Also, a large portion of the Irish population were transported to other continents, or left willingly, and a lot of the country still looks abandoned: roads, farms, buildings and fields all sit as they have for decades and centuries.

As for the surf, when its good its Gee O-Double Dee. Because of the extreme elements that Ireland is known for, the breaks are significantly less crowded than other surf destinations (think Hawaii, Australia and California). Unfortunately there are two main X-factors that one has to deal with when trying to score waves in Ireland. First is the fickle weather. Second are the islands notoriously long flat spells. The only cure for both of these ailments is time (and the Guinness), so if you book your trip for long enough (at least two weeks) during the surf season (fall and spring but also winter if youre really brave and naturally insulated) the possibility of finding un-crowded, epic waves increases significantly.

Things To Do

Attractions:

There are many interesting things to see and do all throughout Ireland and what you choose depends on whether or not you have a penchant for the historical, the charmingly quaint or the natural. Hiking and adventuring are popular activities with tourists and locals alike; theres nothing like wallowing through peat bogs while the mist whips around your face and sheep graze nearby. There are also sights of national significance, like the castles and ruins of the Celtics and early Christians. Old towns and villages dot the Irish countryside and their antiquity is an attraction in itself. And then theres Dublin: home to Thin Lizzy, Sinead OConnor, U2.= - and the Guinness.

Below are a few of the top sightseeing attractions. While most surfers often consider themselves too cool to hang with the regular, land-centric tourists, because of the history behind these sites they are much more than tourist traps.

Bru na Boinne: On the banks of the Boyne River. A group of prehistoric monuments and constructions that include Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth.

The Burren: Located in Galway Bay, a lunar-esque landscape with odd rock formations and more prehistoric monuments.

Glendalough: South of Dublin in the Wicklow Mountains. Early Christian buildings that include two cylindrical towers that were once cathedrals. Beautiful natural scenery as well.

The Giants Causeway: Northern Irelands most visited tourist site. A wacky organization of basalt columns that look like octagonal steps (but theyre quite big) and that cover the beach. If you are going to be near Northern Ireland, you must do yourself the favor of seeing the Causeway - the fact that its not man made will blow your mind (and it was used on the cover of Houses of the Holy). Plus, its right near the Old Bushmills Distillery - just make sure to visit the distillery after the Causeway, lest you get too drunk and fall to your death on the rocks.

Bunratty Castle: A tower house built in 1467 by the OBriens. It is fully refurbished and a traditional, period meal is even offered now (for a price). However, the castle itself is worth seeing simply for the fact that it has been standing in that same location for over 500 years.

Where to eat and drink:

Where to begin there are so many different options in Ireland and the majority of them are quite good. Try Dublin, Galway and major cities for upscale dining. If you are more interested in the authentic Irish experience, go to the oldest pub you can find (thatched roof and smoldering peat fire is usually a giveaway) and order the stew, or something with cabbage and potatoes. Like any other Western country, Ireland offers a variety of cuisines but the best type of food the country offers is the unofficial national dish: stew.

As far as drinking goes, this section of our report could go on for pages. There are so many pubs - big and small, old and new - throughout Ireland that it is pointless to give you a few ones at random, your best bet is to go and find out for yourself!

Just have someone else drive.

Shopping:

Ireland has great shopping, although note the dollar to Euro exchange rate because things can get pricey. In Dublin, Grafton Street is a big shopping area: street vendors, department stores, boutiques, souvenir shops and so much more. Other places to shop are any major city (Cork, Galway, Belfast, etc.) but the small towns and the countryside also offer unique shop-ortunities. One can find antiques, thrift stores, native trinkets and nice jewelry. Dont forget, Ireland is known for its greenery and its sheep - these two things come together in a wonderful way in the form of wool and cheese! So be a dag: pick up a wool sweater and stay warm and Irish/stylish, or bring back some farmhouse cheese and whisky for your friends!

Events:

Here is Irelands official websites calendar of festivals and events:
http://www.discoverireland.com/us/ireland-things-to-see-and-do/culture-and-sights/arts-culture-and-festivals/

Of notability is the St. Patricks Festival in March (the actual day is the 17th but the festival lasts five days) in Dublin. The Galway Races (July 27th to August 2nd) in Galway. The Galway International Oyster Festival (the 24th of September to the 27th) which offers oysters, Guinness and music. And the Cork International Jazz Festival in Cork, this is Irelands biggest and most famous Jazz event and brings tourists from around the world.

Nightlife:

The nightlife in Ireland is bar none. From cozy pubs to raucous discos, whatever your pleasure Ireland delivers. In the metropolitan cities of Dublin, Cork, Galway and Belfast there are a lot of young people and thus a lot of opportunities to meet and party with the locals.

The Irish are some of the most musical people in the world. Bad music is not allowed, and that applies to pubs in the remotest nook of the country, to the biggest pub in Dublin. Bad music and no talent are verboten.

If you cant sing: Dane. The Irish can dance up a storm. So if you prefer something a little more low key, try the village pub or local bar where you can often catch the local musicians rocking out.