Overview

Scorpion Bay is not a secret spot. It is not the place you go if you want to surf uncrowded, marginal surf and it is not the place you go if you want to vacay in style. The campground, its facilities and the village of San Juanico all epitomize the term Spartan. But the waves epitomize the phrase mind blowingly epic and will leave you at a loss for words.

Scorpion has a tiny swell window and a quick season, it can be fickle and it can be below waist high the whole time you are there. Conversely, it can be consistently head high and firing, complete with warm water and friendly folk. It is all a matter of planning, forecasting and blind luck. Scorpion Bay is the kind of place where when the end (waves) justifies the means (trekking across 800+ miles of dusty Baja), you never want to leave and vow to yourself that you will someday return.

The biggest hurdle to attaining Scorps bliss is undoubtedly the arduous expedition necessary to reach the break. But if camping out and communing with nature in the truest, most surfy sense can be fun, so can the drive. Passing through dusty towns as you blast down the Baja coast is a unique, culturally eye-opening experience. Baja Sur is very different from Baja Norte and la frontiera. Once you pass San Quintin, Mexico becomes, well, more like Mexico! True, small town coastal Mexico is worlds away from tourist destinations like Rosarito Beach and Tijuana. The village of San Juanico features a slower pace of life than any city directly south, or north of the U.S./ California border, and if youve never experienced authentic Mexico youre missing out.

Choosing Scorps as the location for your surf vacation is a big decision, as it is not somewhere that you can easily fly into and taxi it to the nearest five-star. It is not Bali. What Scorpion Bay is, is a seemingly magical break that really makes you feel like you are time-traveling. Leaving civilization, electricity and paved roads behind, at Scorps you have only a few recreational options (surf, eat, sleep, drink, read). This kind of trip can soothe a mind troubled or weakened by a 9-5 and it can remedy the corporate blues. So if you want to score some great waves, and you have the appropriate experience and vehicle, release your soul to Southern Baja and let her soothe your modern day millennial blues.

SEASON OVERVIEW

Best season for waves:

Scorpion Bay is definitely a summer break. It takes a south, southwest or a big west swell. The prime time to go to Scorps is between early April and early October (late October can still be good but the further you get into winter the bigger the chances youll get skunked). While a BIG northwest swell will occasionally sneak into the point, it isnt recommended to venture down during the off season because the journey is such a trek- save your voyage for summer when theres more of a guarantee that youll get surf.

Weather:

Hot, hot, hot! This is Baja, people- and not Baja Norte- Baja Sur gets very very toasty and it doesnt have the issue of cold winds that la frontiera does. The temp during the summer is usually around 100 but it can easily go up into the 110s, so come prepared with sun block, a hat and light cotton clothes. And lots of sweat. Youll be using it.

The good:

Awesome waves, warm water, meeting cool folks, sipping cerveza at the local cantina while reliving the days glories.

The bad:

Lava rocks, the sweltering Mexican sun, angry local gringos, long paddles, no swell.

The Waves

Breaks:

Scorpion Bay is made up of six points, four of which are considered the main breaks, as the other two points breaks less frequently. All the points work well on a low-mid tide, with west and east winds creating offshore conditions. They also all take a S, SW or W swell.

First Point: First has the smallest surf and the shortest rides. Recently, as of 2009, the sand has moved around quite a bit and improved this point, though its still the idiot brother of the genius wave that is Third Point. Its a good place for beginners and novices to escape the crowds and log some serious learning hours.

Second Point: Second has a sandy bottom and beach. Its usually the place that Scorpion newbies get their first taste of the break. Second gives a pretty long ride and is sheltered from the wind, making it glassy or offshore most of the time. It is the most consistent of all the points and often gets crowded.

Third Point: Third is faster and more hollow than its predecessors, and is for the more advanced surfer. This is the most famous point of all the breaks at Scorpion Bay and when it gets big, this is a world-class wave. However, its a little more difficult to get to because of the steep cliff that must be scaled in order to reach the break. The lighthouse is on third point and it has been said that on a good day, with the right swell, one can make it all the way through Third to First. A warning though, at low tide watch out! The beach and inside of the break is littered with sharp, volcanic rocks that are equally unforgiving to surfboards and bare feet. Also, keep in mind that if you get a minute+ ride on a wave, that means a five or so minute paddle out back to the lineup- so get the guns out (the natural, bicep kind).

Fourth/ Fifth Point: To access these points requires a bit more paddling and theyre not quite as good as Third because the wind gets to them (they are the northern most points on the bay). They can get good though, with enough swell and no wind, plus they are usually less crowded than Third. Unfortunately, they are not as shapely as Third because of their exposure.

Water temps:

During the summer south swell season, the water temp ranges from around low-mid 60s from March to May, and low to high 70s from June- October.

In the winter months of November- February the temp drops to the low 60s again.

Equipment:

Being a perfect, non-sectioning wave, you can ride pretty much anything at Scorps. The only noteworthy restriction is that it can be a fickle wave, and it could be small (below chest high) your whole trip.

Perfect waves are perfect waves, but perfect, bug-sized waves require something with a little more volume to have fun. On this note, its wise to bring a longer board, a fish, or something to ensure you arent under-boarded on the small days. A good quiver for Scorps could be something like: a retro fish, a 95 single fin log and a modern shortboard for bigger days.

Wetsuits:

Depends on how cold you get, keep in mind that though the water can be as high as 79 or 80 degrees, there is a wind chill factor. During high noon you can probably skin it or get away with wearing a wetsuit top. If youre going during the peak of the season in August or September, a 2 mil spring suit should suffice, but if you run cold bringing a 3/2 doesnt hurt. Booties are also somewhat of a necessity, as the rocks that line the point are sharp, jagged lava rocks and urchins may be hiding in their crevices.

Locals:

There is definitely a local vibe at Scorps, but you cant really call the locals locals. Most local surfers are expats who moved down there, or who own property there. They are very aware of the increased encroachment on their spot and theyre not happy about it. Besides that, the break can get pretty crowded by visitors and over twenty people in the line up makes for some paddle jockeying. Be nice, be respectful and make friends. If you dont hog waves or act like a total jerk, you should be ok.

Dangers:

Sharp lava rocks that line the beach and make up a lot of the bottom at the break, urchins, pissed off local expats, getting dropped in on.

Accomodation/Transportation

Where to stay:

There are a few options when it comes to staying at Scorpion Bay. You can rent a palapa, you can rent a campsite and camp, you can rent the one suite at the campground or you can stay in town.

As of late, there has been some drama about campsite closure. In December 2009 it was still open, but more and more travelers are staying in one of the two hotels in town. Aside from that, you can rent individual rooms in town from the locals who live there.

Campsites are $15 dollars per day, per person (and kids under six years old are free). This fee pays for toilets, trash removal and cold showers. Unfortunately, the campsites are sold on a first come first served basis, as reservations are not an option. If youre planning your trip around a big swell it pays off to get there a day or two before to ensure that they dont fill up. To get a campsite, check in at the Scorpion Bay Cantina and pay the fee. Things you should bring are, well, everything! Towels, blankets, sunscreen, warm clothes, lawn chairs, tents, Coleman stove, etc. etc. There is no electricity and only basic amenities at the sites, so come prepared.

Palapas on the other hand can be reserved and if you have a few people, they are a good way to go. They cost $54 per day for one- two people, with each additional person costing $17 a day. There is a four=person minimum July- August, as this is peak season. There is no electricity or running water in the palapas, but they provide more protection from the elements than a tent and they also include the use of a private bathroom (with a hot shower!). They also come with sleeping pads and bags, though you still may want to bring your own. To reserve one, visit http://www.scorpionbay.net/calendar/webCal3_month.asp

The suite option is still by no means of luxury hotel standards, but if youre traveling with a non-surfing spouse or young children, this may be the way to go. The one suite available runs about $110 a night (for two) and every additional guest must pay $27 per night (again, this charge doesnt include young children). The suite consists of two bedrooms and a bath room, with two twin beds and extra sleeping cots available upon request. To reserve this house, go to the same site as above.

Getting around:

If you are driving in Mexico, whether its from the airport or from the border, you must make sure to get Mexican insurance. It can be purchased when you rent a car at the airport, or before you cross the border from the U.S. into Mexico. While it is not usually something that you will use, its better to have coverage than to be thrown in jail for someone else crashing into you.

The town of San Juanico is small and theres not much to do besides surf and hang out on the campsite or at the beach, but getting to San Juanico requires a car. If you are flying, some rent-a-car places at the airports (La Paz and Loreto) are listed below:

Dollar Rent A Car:
Tel: 011526121226060
Office in La Paz: 011526121246282
www.dollar.com

Thrifty Rent-A-Car:
Tel: 011526121235151
www.thrifty.com.mx

Budget Car Rental:
Tel: 011526121246433
Office in Loreto: 011526131351090
www.budget.com

Avis:
Tel: 011526121246312
Office in La Paz: 011526121222651
www.avis.com

Hertz:
Tel: 011526121246330
www.hertz.com

Getting There

Read the following very carefully and decide if it wouldnt be better to fly:

Driving:
A mission not to be underestimated or embarked upon without doing your research. Scorps is between 650 - 800 miles from the border and 125 - 150 of those miles are covered by dirt road, so though a 4WD vehicle is not necessary, traveling in one is highly recommended. If you drive straight through, the drive from the edge of Southern California to the bay takes around 14-16 hours. However, if you drive at a non-meth induced pace, the whole trek usually takes the better part of two days.

The distance to Scorps depends on which road you take after you reach San Ignacio. To get to this point, there is one contiguous route; Highway one runs from Tijuana to San Ignacio and is 545 miles long. Once you cross the border, follow the signs through Tijuana to Highway 1 and stay on it until you reach San Ignacio. If you plan on stopping overnight during this leg of the journey, there are little no-name hotels along the highway and also beachside campgrounds. Make sure that you fuel up at every gas station you pass, as the frequency of serviceable gas stations is unpredictable. Also, you may want to change your money in one of the major towns in Northern Baja before you get too far into the sticks. There are major banks in Ensenada, San Quintin, Guerrero Negro and Santa Rosalia.

Once you get to San Ignacio you have two options, you can take the south road, or you can take the more treacherous north road. The shortest way is obvious the most dangerous, rugged way. While the north road does cut off almost 300 miles because its more direct, 100 miles of it traversed by un-manicured dirt. Heres the breakdown:

South Road:

--Instead of going into San Ignacio, stay on the main highway (this is still Hwy 1). Follow it (you will eventually come out at the Sea of Cortez and the first town is Santa Rosalia). The road winds along the sea of Cortez until Loreto. Shortly after Loreto you will head up a fairly steep and windy mountain pass. This eventually turns into a long and straight plateau road that goes for about 90-100kms. Bottom line is that you just need to stay on Mex 1 the entire way.

--Eventually the road will come to a T junction. To your right will be a Pemex station and signs for Ciudad Constitucion and La Paz. To your left is Ciudad Insurgentes, turn left here.
--Pass through Ciudad Insurgentes and keep going. This next stretch takes about an hour; it's a very straight road but often has a lot of potholes. Eventually you will wind up into the mesas.
--As you come down, you will see an unmarked left hand turn off that heads down into a huge arroyo (that often has some water in it) This is your turnoff. If you miss it, you will end up in La Purisima.

--Once you have made this left, you are on the real south road. You've still got about an hour to go; most of it is washboard dirt, but the last 12 miles or so is paved. You can't go wrong here. Just keep going. Eventually you will see the town of San Juanico and can head for it.

North Ranch Road: When it comes to the north road, there are a couple different ways you can go. The quickest is through the salt flats, but since this route is pretty dangerous (you can get lost or stuck) it is best to only undertake this road if youre following someone whos done it before. The north "ranch" road is about the same distance (mile-wise) as the salt flats; it's slower for sure, but it's the high and dry road and you can always count on it.

--From Mex 1, turn right into San Ignacio just past the Pemex station. Follow the road, past the oasis into the main town square (about 2 miles).
--At the church, turn left and set your odometer to zero.
--Follow the signs to Laguna de San Ignacio.
--At the end of town follow the road straight, up the hill and to the left. Shortly thereafter, the road will become paved blacktop.
--The paved road ends at odometer 6.2 miles and becomes dirt washboard. *Landmark: Signs for Laguna de San Ignacio & Avistamiento de Aves @ 9.4 miles. Keep going.
*Landmark: three signs and a left turn at 18.6 miles. Keep going.
--At 34.8 miles, turn left for San Jose de Gracia. At this turn, reset odometer to zero.
--Follow this road (will be dirt washboard).
--At 5.2 miles you will come to a fork in the road, take the left one (it's here where you could drop down to the right onto the salt flats).
--Follow this road; it will run alongside the mesas at first and then start heading towards them.
--At about 20 miles, the road becomes rocky and narrow. You are now in a big arroyo and will have to go very slowly through here.
--At about 24 miles you will come to a wooden gate. This is known as "the ranch". There is an old man who lives here. Often he will come out and open the gate for you. Bring him some water, food, clothes or pesos; he will be eternally grateful. If he doesn't come out, just open the gate yourself, pass through and close it behind you. Keep going, you will wind out of the mesas.
--At about 34 miles you will come to three or four places of "moondust". Be careful here: these are huge potholes of fine dust that you can easily sink into. Go slowly through this area. Stop, get out, check the road before driving through. Look for the tracks that go around these bad spots and follow them.
--At mile 37 you will come to a fork in the road. To the left is the road to San Jose de Gracia; to the right is the road to Cadeje.
--Go right here and follow the road. Slow washboard dirt all the way
Just before the tiny town of La Ballena is where the salt flat route meets up with the ranch road. There is a small sign that says "Datil". You won't need to worry about this. After this, all "north road" routes are one.
--At mile 59.5 you will drop down into the town of Cadeje. At the chain link fence, turn right.
--At the top of the hill just outside of Cadeje is the military checkpoint for this area.
--From Cadeje it is 8.6 miles to San Juanico.

Flying:

If you decide that driving is too much for you, you can always fly to Mexico (via Loreto airport) and drive the rest of the way to San Juanico (follow the south road directions starting at Loreto). Loreto is much closer than La Paz, but there is also an airport there. Airlines that service these airports are Delta, Aeromexico Connect, Alaska, Continental, Aero Califa and Aero Guerrero. From LAX these flights run around $400- 600, depending on when you book. Once you get to Loreto, you can drive up to San Juanico and it takes about 3 hours from both cities. Car rental is available at both airports and it usually runs around $50 dollars a day. Make sure you get Mexican insurance though, as an auto accident regardless of who is at fault is a criminal offense in Mexico.

Current Surf Conditions

Click to see current conditions

Travel Info

Official Language:

Spanish, Spanglish

Currency:

Pesos (official) and US dollars (accepted almost everywhere). Note: there is no ATM or bank in San Juanico, so if you want to change money or take money out it is best to do it somewhere in Baja Norte. There are ATMs in Ensenada, San Quintin, Guerrero Negro, Loreto and Ciuad Insurgentes. These are the best options for changing money or getting money, as banks in Mexico are notoriously unreliable.

Exchange rate:

1 USD: 12.936778 MXN
*As of Dec 2009

Good website for conversion: http://www.x-rates.com/calculator.html#

Health and safety:

As with other travel destinations in Mexico, there are few key things that one must worry about. First of all, dont drink the water! Dont accept drinks with ice in them and if you get thirsty, drink bottled water or soda or beer. The food is relatively innocuous at the restaurants in Scorpion, but beware of stopping at little stands or hole in the wall places on the way down. The quainter a place, the more chances its unsanitary.

At the Scorpion campsite and in San Juanico, the vibe is pretty mellow and there are a lot of visitors or expats, so theft is not too much of an issue. That said, it is still important to take the normal precautions of locking your stuff up and not blatantly flaunting any wealth you may have. The real thing that one must be concerned about is driving to Scorpion (whether from the border or from the airport). If you can avoid it, dont drive at night, try to caravan with another vehicle and dont sleep/ camp in desolate places. Driving through Baja Norte has become an increasingly dangerous endeavor in the past five years, so take precautions! Check for travel advisories and remember that safety definitely comes in numbers.

While driving down, watch for livestock and wayward trucks. Trucks and tractors rule the lanes of Mexican Highway 1, so beware and give them plenty of room. Also, make sure you carry extra supplies and equipment. Necessary items if you are making the trek from the U.S. include: a good jack, some pieces of 2x4 for getting through muddy areas, spare tire(s), rope, general tool box, motor oil and plenty of water.

There is a significant issue of banditos when you are driving through Baja Norte, so be cautious and follow your gut instinct.

Another noteworthy necessity is an FMT. This is a temporary tourist visa and they are needed if you are traveling beyond border zones (Scorps is well beyond said zone). You can get them at the 24-hour immigration station after crossing the border for the U.S. They are $20 and you must pay at a bank, either at the border or at the checkpoint in Guerrero Negro. Just make sure to keep in mind that banks are not open on weekends, holidays or in the afternoon, so plan accordingly. If you do not have a visa you will be turned away at the Guerrero Negro checkpoint.

Minors (people under 18) must have a signed document from their parent or guardian, giving the adult who is traveling with them the authority to take the minor into Mexico. This document is required even if the minor is traveling with one of their parents (i.e. in this case, the note must come from the stateside parent).

Pitfalls:

Flat spells, Moctezumas revenge (from drinking dirty water), cold showers (do not go to Scorps on a honeymoon with a non-surfer, unless you consider taking frigid showers where water is rationed and sleeping in a tent a romantic getaway), banditos (robbery), sharp lava rocks on the beach, crowds, aggro locals, and getting stuck in the salt flats.

Also, there are no banks in the town of San Juanico and not much to do besides eat, drink, sleep and surf. So if the surf is flat, a few more pitfalls are: alcoholism, obesity and the Baja deserts very own version of cabin fever.

Expectations:

Going to Scorpion Bay is definitely a pilgrimage of epic proportions. Whether you fly or drive, traveling here takes a good amount of preparation and effort, but the reward is near perfect surf if there are waves. Unfortunately, it is somewhat of a fickle break with a narrow swell window and a short season, so there is a very real possibility of getting completely skunked. If you are a first timer in Mexico, it may be beneficial to try your luck in Northern Baja before conquering Scorps (in order to get a feeling for what a Mexican surf trip is all about). Scorps is not a place to come if you are looking for a light, commercial vacation complete with shopping and sipping margies by the pool- but if you want a true, rural surf trek with the potential of surf beyond your wildest dreams, this is the spot to go.

This is one of the best waves on the whole West Coast when its working, so expect heaven on earth if there is surf. While the accommodations are by no means five-star, the waves are; after a long day of surfing perfectly peeling point grinders, youll be too tired to notice the hard ground beneath your head. Scorps is a summer time break and when it is firing, it does get crowded. Thanks to the Internet, when theres a big south brewing everyone knows waves are in the forecast. Between visiting surfers and angry expats, there can definitely be a vibe out in the water. But if you are respectful and give waves where waves are due, usually most problems can be avoided.

Things To Do

Attractions:

Theres not much to do in the village of San Juanico. The little village is a sleepy, rural place that boasts five restaurants and five stores. Aside from surfing, you can lounge on the beach or at the cantina, bring your dirt bike or off-road vehicle and do some extreme driving, go kayaking, sailing, windsurfing, snorkeling, fishing or scuba diving.

While going in March is a bit of a gamble as far as south swells are concerned, if this is the only time you can make it, youre in luck as far as natural attractions go. About an hour south of San Juanico lies Magdalena Bay- this is one of the top three hook-up spots for California Grays. The whales annual mating frenzy that takes place here is something to be witnessed; however, the underwater sex-fest doesnt exactly coincide with the best surfing season at Scorpion.

Where to eat and drink:

Aside from the Scorpion Bay Cantina (which features good tacos, beer and burgers), there are the following restaurants in town:

Christis Tacos (on the main road, below the school) this place offers cheap tacos, tortas and soda.

Dan Alarcans Pizza Restaurant (on the main road on the way to the cantina, on the left side of the road) Dans has non- Mexican food (pizza- duh) and is owned by a gringo.

Glorias Restaurant (up from the corner of the main road at the beginning of towns north end) semi-unsafe Mexican seafood, cheap but eat at your own risk.

Restaurant Punta Pequena: (on the northern outskirts of town) tacos, fish and rice/ bean plates, good food and open for all three squares.

Shopping:

Not much to speak of, if youre really interested in picking up some tourist fare do so on the drive down or the drive out in the bigger cites of Baja Norte (Ensenada, Rosarito, San Quintin). Or, if youre flying, get your souvenirs in the airport towns of La Paz or Loreto.

As far as the basic necessities go, they can be procured at the small groceries in San Juanico: Lupitas and El Bohemio Tecate Market (or Arturos) are the most well-stocked places. There is also Chinos Market and the Rural Tienda, but their supplies are very limited. Additionally, the Scorpion Bay Cantina sells beer, candy bars, ice, firewood, surf wax and ding repair kits, clean water and toothpaste.

Events:

Again, the rural location of the town makes for slim offerings as far as structured events go, however there are a few to mention. The Baja 1000 comes through town in fall; an off-road race that spans the peninsula, if you like noise or dust go have a look.

Aside from that, there is also the San Juanico Days festival. The home base for this event is the community center on the south side of town and the festivities take place for a few days, annually, during the third week of June. The festival is complete with horse races, cockfights, a beauty pageant, the sale of local goods and live music. The after party usually runs late into the night and can be a fun place to hang with old friends and make new ones.

Nightlife:

Not much. The Scorpion Bay Cantina is the nucleus for nightlife because its the only place open late and its the de facto gathering place for expats and visiting surfers alike. If youre looking to party hard at the discoteque, Scorps is not the place to try and fulfill this goal. But if youre looking to surf and relax with some drinks and like-minded individuals, welcome home.

Additional Resources

Baja Expo site, good info:
http://www.bajaexpo.com/cities/sanjuan.htm

The Scorpion Bay website with rental info:
http://www.scorpionbay.net/index.php