French Polynesia > Tahiti French Polynesia
Tahiti French Polynesia
The Basics
Tahiti is the largest island in the Society Islands, an island group in the South Pacific archipelago known as French Polynesia. The capital of Tahiti is Papeete, located on the NW side of the island. Its between 15 degrees south and the Tropic of Capricorn, and between 135 and 150 west longitude. The capital city, Papeete, is at 1734S 14936W.Tahitis population is around 250,000- making it the most populated island in French Polynesia, but still a lot less crowded than most of the civilized world. Tahiti offers a unique blend of colonial French atmosphere with a traditional island twist, all in a mind-numbingly beautiful setting. The waves are as perfect as the scenery and the gem-like colors of the Tahitian landscape will fool you into thinking you are staring at a screen-saver. Perfectly clear water, perfectly formed waves, and the best elements of European culture seamlessly amalgamated with those of the Polynesian heritage- could anyone ask for more??
Overview
The main island of Tahiti has a similar geography to that of Maui. There is a smaller landmass called Tahiti Iti and a larger one called Tahiti Nui.Tahiti is just one island in the archipelago that is the Society Islands. Im going to Tahiti means exactly that: you are going to the main island of the Society Islands. If you are going somewhere else in the Society Islands, the previous statement is akin to saying Im going to the Big Island, when you are really going to Kauai. That said, other French Polynesian islands that present surfing opportunities aside from Tahiti (from the southeast to northwest) are Moorea, Huahine, Tahaa and Raiatea.
Now for a little history: Tahiti was first exposed to the West (and all the disease, alcohol, Christianity and degradation that came with it) in 1767 when Samuel Wallis visited the island and returned to England with tales of its laid back, peaceful culture. Seeking opportunities for colonization, Europeans continued contact with Tahiti via explorers Louis-Antoine de Bougainville, Captain James Cook and later, U.S.-born Alfred Thomas Agate. In 1843, Tahitian Queen Pomare IV was persuaded to accept a French protectorate and Tahiti has remained a loosely affiliated part of France ever since. While the protectorate guarantees Tahiti French protection (diplomatically and militarily) against any outside enemy, this status doesnt interfere too much with local life or the Tahitian governments autonomy.
In 1777 Captain James Cook was one of the first Europeans to observe the native inhabitants of the island riding waves. While he watched Tahitians sail peacefully over the breakers in their canoes, Cook noted: I could not help concluding that [they] felt the most supreme pleasure while [] driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea.
Mike Hynson and Robert August were among the first to surf Tahiti during the filming of The Endless Summer. While the perplexed, skeptical natives looked on, the guys exhibited some slidin and glidin at El Stumpo and Ins and Outs. But since 1964, a lot has changed. Surfers now know that Tahiti offers more than just these easily accessible breaks, although as noted, a boat is often required to surf Tahitis harder to get to waves.
While the surf in Tahiti is phenomenal, the islands natural beauty should not be diminished as its secondary attraction. Lush jungles cover
most of the island and the air is thick with the scent of sultry tropical blossoms. The land is clean and so is the water, the people are nice and so are the waves. Best of all, if youre looking for a relaxed place to vacation with a culture accepting of the barefoot, crusty surfer type- Tahiti will not disappoint. Riding waves is in the cultural DNA here, going at least as far back as Captain Cook, and probably many centuries before that.
The Seasons
Best season for waves:Tahiti has two seasons: winter and summer, but they get a little confusing to northern hemisphereans, because everything is bass ackward. Winter is from April to October and summer is from November to March. The Tahitian summer is the NorHem winter, but its typically considered the off-season for waves, though this just means its smaller - not flat. During summer, winter swells from the northern hemisphere (the same ones that hit Hawaii) pass Tahiti, but after 2,600 miles of travel, across the equator, the waves are significantly smaller and they reach Tahiti 3 days later than Hawaii.
The Tahitian winter is the NorHem summer, when sizable surf is generated by low-pressure systems that travel from Antarctica to New Zealand then up to Tahiti. Though it doesnt get much colder during the Tahitian winter, the Southern Ocean springs to life. Instead of the reds and yellows of autumn leaves that signify seasonal change in temperate regions, Tahiti has the greens and blues of crashing breakers as indicators of the approaching winter.
November to March is also the rainy season in Tahiti and while tropical cyclones occasionally pass Tahiti, for the most part, the rainy season just means rain.
Weather:
Tahiti is tropical and the air temp usually fluctuates between 78 and 84 all year round. The hottest time in Tahiti is between March and April, while the winter chill comes between June and September. In winter the southeast trade wind, called the maraamu, bathes the island with its breezes and causes the temperature to dip a bit. Even so, while it may get cold enough for cotton sweaters, wool is definitely not required.
The Good:
There are fewer tourists than other tropical locales. And, of course, the out-of-the-way location equals less people in the lineup, which in turn means less back-of-the-head views when youre dropping in at Rocky Point. The food on Tahiti is a wonderful fusion of traditional island eats and French cuisine. Plus if you choose Tahiti as your surf destination, you will get to experience rural island culture in a less-Westernized environment than Hawaii.
The Bad:
Obviously the price (of airfare and amenities once on the island) is the major drawback to a Tahitian getaway. Other downsides include traffic (all the islands experience mild congestion due to the lack of multiple lane highways) and noise pollution (scooters and buses). Thieves are also a slight problem- the bloodsucking, bug variety (mosquitoes) and the money hungry human sort as well.
The Waves
Obviously, Tahitis famed break is the chomping Teahupoo on the south coast of Tahiti Iti, but Tahiti offers a variety of breaks for surfers of varying abilities. For the goofyfooter or for those who just like a challenge, there is Taapuna on the northwest coast of Tahiti Nui, Haapiti on the southwest coast of Moorea, and Fitii, Parea and Fare on Huahine.There are beach breaks at the Papara Rivermouth on the southwest coast of the island, at Sapinus on the west coast of the island, on the north coast at Rocky Point and PK-15, and at the Papenoo Rivermouth on the northeast. Besides this, the surf on Tahiti as with all the Society Islands is generally found on shallow reef passes farther out to sea. As mentioned before, a boat (with a competent captain) is always a plus.
Though Tahiti has smaller and more manageable surf than Teahupoo, most breaks are best surfed by the intermediate to advanced level surfer. In other words, if you dont want to destroy your body, your board, or other peoples bodies and boards, dont go to Tahiti for a surf vacation if you cant surf. There are many locations that offer a good environment for learning or perfecting your technique (many of which Wetsand has in-depth profiles on) but Tahiti is not one of them.
Water Temps:
Between 78 and 84. And no, your eyes dont deceive you, that really is the water temp! Year-around!! No lower than 78 !! Does that make you horny?
Equipment:
Although bringing a giant quiver via airplane is always a pricey endeavor, in Tahiti youll probably shred so hard youll break your stick (at least one of them) so multiple surfboards are definitely recommended. According to some frequenters of the Society Islands three is the magic number. A thruster, a semi gun and a fish for small days will usually suffice.
Wetsuits:
While wetsuits arent necessary for insulation against the water, they are recommended for insulation against staghorn coral. Even if its just a rash guard, the more you can put between yourself and the sharp, infectious reef the better.
Locals:
Though Tahiti is somewhat off the beaten path, it is still a well-known surf destination and thus, popular breaks do experience a moderate to high volume of surfers (when its good).
Over the past 15 years, the increased popularity and notoriety the Society Islands have received in the surf world is definitely resonating with the local surf community. While Tahitian aloha is still alive, blatant acts of disrespect and insolence from outsiders in the water will be dealt with accordingly. In other words- be nice and behave yourself.
Dangers:
Coral reefs (as previously discussed), brutal tropical sun, aggressive locals and dangerous non-human aquatic life (coral, stingrays, jellyfish, sharks, stone fish and the cone snail) are all hazard factors in the Society Islands. For more info on venomous oceanic flora/ fauna please visit: http://www.thetahititraveler.com/touristinfo/healthnatu.asp
Accomodation/Transportation
Where to stay:Holing up on the Society Islands can be pricey, but there is a range of accommodations. Youth hostels, surf bungalows, Five Star resorts and surf-specific compounds abound in the area.
If youre trying to save your bucks, try: http://www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/french-polynesia/tahiti/
Its a good site that offers links and overviews of a few different hostels, ranging from $32- $125 dollars per night for a single room.
Got cash to burn on luxury living? Then the top surf-resorts are a good place to start: http://www.tahiti.pacific-resorts.com/surfing.html This site gives a break down of the different surfer-accommodating resorts. These range from $100- $600 a night.
Featured Resorts
Black Water Lodge, TeahupooThe buildings at the Blackwater Lodge look like Middle Earth gone troppo. The three-unit complex is set on a hill overlooking Teahupoo, and the buildings were designed and constructed using native Tahitian materials and craftsmanship: thatched roofs and stone, native hardwoods and lots of big, curving angles.
The main, middle unit sleeps four. The smaller units on the left and right house the kitchen and dining areas as well as an activity room. The Lodge can accommodate more than four but requires sleeping in pullout beds in the dining wing and activity room.
Blackwater Lodge is wired to the outside world with satellite TV and Internet and there is also a game room to keep the juices pumping between surfs.
Cuisine is a combination of the best of France with the best of Polynesia: fresh fish and baguette. Giant bowls of coffee and fresh fruit. This is the way to live.
Getting out to the reefs is the main attraction at Blackwater Lodge, and surf transfers are provided by 15 tinny with a 25 hp outboard. This boat is also used for fishing and snorkeling trips. Find More Info>
The main, middle unit sleeps four. The smaller units on the left and right house the kitchen and dining areas as well as an activity room. The Lodge can accommodate more than four but requires sleeping in pullout beds in the dining wing and activity room.
Blackwater Lodge is wired to the outside world with satellite TV and Internet and there is also a game room to keep the juices pumping between surfs.
Cuisine is a combination of the best of France with the best of Polynesia: fresh fish and baguette. Giant bowls of coffee and fresh fruit. This is the way to live.
Getting out to the reefs is the main attraction at Blackwater Lodge, and surf transfers are provided by 15 tinny with a 25 hp outboard. This boat is also used for fishing and snorkeling trips. Find More Info>
Ha'apiti Surf LodgeNothing fancy, but nothing lacking. Haapiti Surf Lodge has four bungalows perched on the hillside overlooking the beach, lagoon and the wave off on the reef. Each bungalow is equipped with comfortable beds, bathroom with hot water, a fully equipped kitchenette, fan and a TV. The Lodge is close to the local market which allows you to keep well stocked with Hinano, fruit, oatmeal, bread, meat and all the necessary basics.
For access to the reefs, Haapiti Surf Lodge has kayaks which allow surfers a safer, faster trip to the wave. If you break your board or get cut, having that kayak anchored in the channel will save you a long swim or paddle back to shore. Find More Info>
For access to the reefs, Haapiti Surf Lodge has kayaks which allow surfers a safer, faster trip to the wave. If you break your board or get cut, having that kayak anchored in the channel will save you a long swim or paddle back to shore. Find More Info>
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Current Surf Conditions
Click to see current conditionsTravel Info
Getting Here:Air Tahiti Nui is the official Tahitian airline but Air New Zealand, Qantas, Air France and Delta all fly to Papeete too. While flying to Tahiti can be pricey, the waves and natural beauty make up for the cost. Typically, it costs between $700- $1000 to fly to Tahiti from the U.S (of course prices depend on when you book and how far in advance you do it). The cheapest time to fly to Tahiti is during the hottest months of their tourism off season, from January through March. Unfortunately, this is also the off season for waves.
Official Language:
The language Tahitian is a Tahitic language spoken by natives, though French is also an official language of Tahiti and most people speak English as well.
Currency:
The French Pacific Franc, or "Comptoirs Francais du Pacifique franc."
Exchange Rate:
As of 10/2009 the rate is 86 French Pacific Francs to the American dollar. (XPF).
Health and Safety:
Crime and tropical diseases do not pose the problem in Tahiti that they do in other surf destinations. Regrettably, coral reefs do; staghead coral is the nastiest of underwater slicers. The main islands are thoroughly modern for hospitals and pharmacies. Vaccines are not required for Tahiti bound travelers, but recommended are: hepatitis A and B, Rabies, Japanese encephalitis and typhoid. Toting an economy-size tube of Neosporin and some bandages never hurt anyone, and that will usually do the trick in a messy situation.
Pitfalls:
Just as Tahiti lives up to its reputation for epic waves, it also fulfills expectations of epic prices. In Tahiti banks deduct large service fees every time you exchange currency and banks themselves are few and far between. That said it is wise to use travelers checks, or to change all your money at once. A fellow waterman who recently visited reported: A local plate lunch of hamburger patty, scrambled eggs and rice, with a soft drink, totaled $18.75.
http://www.cdnn.info/news/article/a040601.html
Expectations:
Stepping off the plane in the Society Islands, you can expect to slap yourself, or have someone else slap you, just to make sure you didnt expire in a fiery crash over the South Pacific and transcend to a tropical nirvana. Its really that beautiful; over the ages, the master craftsman that is H2O has shaped and sculpted the French Polynesian islands into a stunning landscape. Sheer cliffs covered by equatorial vegetation, huge waterfalls and pristine rivers, and beaches - seemingly untouched by the actions of man - make up the Tahitian terrain.
And all of this without a single mention of waves! Since Tahiti is surrounded by hundreds of miles of coast on all sides, it lights up with every passing swell during its two seasons (November to March = winter and April to October = summer, but more on that later). The waves range from black diamond status (Teahupoo) to more intermediate level surf. Noteworthy is the fact that most breaks in Tahiti are forceful barrier reef passes and require a boat to travel to, though there are a few places that can be reached the old fashioned way.
Things To Do
Attractions:The main attractions in Tahiti are natural. Spectacular beaches, hiking, plunging waterfalls and the jungle all offer endless potential for exploration. Aside from Tahitis organic offerings, there are the common tourist geared spectacles of Tahitian dance shows, luaus, along with other displays of island culture. These can be fun, especially if youre traveling with non-surfers or kids, but keep in mind that the most authentic experiences will be provided by Mother Nature.
Where to eat and drink:
Ooo la la. This is where the French side of French Polynesia kicks in. The French are all about fresh ingredients, prepared elegantly. The Tahitian national dish is called poisson cru. Far from the English word that its nomenclature suggests, this meal consists of raw fish marinated in limejuice and coconut milk. This is poki plus: when you get home, stick a poisson cru menu in the suggestion box at Whole Foods. As with Hawaiian food, pork and seafood are common components of Tahitian fare, but there are plenty of veggie options as well. And dont forget, Tahiti is tropical which means lots of fresh fruit (pineapple, mango, papaya) for the pickins! Some noteworthy Papeete digs are the local, family-run food trucks, known as Les Roulottes. Far from being like American roach coaches these three star restaurants on Michelin tires will blow your mind with their cuisine.
Information about dining on Papeete can be found here:
http://www.papeete.com/todo/papeete/restaurants.html
Shopping:
Some of the goodies and souvenirs you can acquire in Tahiti are the legendary Tahitian black pearl, coconut and other tropically inspired soaps or lotions, vanilla beans (which as any culinary aficionado knows are usually quite pricey), wood carvings, native paintings and hand woven goods. For more information, please visit http://www.papeete.com/todo/papeete/shopping.html
Events:
If youre visiting Tahiti and the Society Islands strictly for surf, its best to avoid the pro contests and surf events. On the other hand, there is usually plenty of surf to go around and going to Tahiti during the contest season is always a stimulating and unforgettable experience.
A stop on the Billabong Pro ASP WCT is Teahupoo, located in Taiarapu, Tahiti and the contest is held in May (exact dates are usually determined close to the time of the contest due to swell, or lack thereof). Check the www.aspworldtour.com website for contest dates.
Aside from surf events, there is the Heiva i Tahiti, which is the biggest festival in French Polynesia. It takes place at Toata Square in Papeete between June- July and the festival is a fine exhibit of native flair/ culture.
Nightlife:
Tahitis nightlife ranges from typical tourist attractions, like Tahitian fire dancing shows, to more authentic local activities. Some of these include visiting seedy discotheques and down-and-dirty dive bars, where the islands national drink Hinano flows loud and large as eight foot Teahupoo. Just remember, what you indulge in at night may come back to haunt you in the form of another down-and-dirty encounter, that is, a brush with the local staghead coral.
Additional Resources
Tahiti Travel:tahititravel.com
Tahiti Tourism official website:
tahiti-tourisme.com
South Pacific Travel Organizer:
southpacific.org
Tahiti and Papeete:
papeete.com/
Links to articles about staying healthy while traveling in tropical areas:
stanford.wellsphere.com
Swaylocks (shaping forum) postings on bringing boards to Tahiti. Interesting speculation on what kind and number is appropriate:
swaylocks.com/forums/hawaii-mentawais-australia-bali-east-sumbawa-tahiti
Current exchange rates: thetahititraveler.com
